Banksy at the Manger

I travel with a short list of places to see.  I find it better than running around frantically checking locations off my list.  If anything extra happens in my travels, it’s like having extra dessert.  And, I certainly love extra dessert.

In Bethlehem, there were only two “must-see” things to do.  I had to go to the Church of the Nativity and the Shepherd’s Field.  A new item that wasn’t around when I visited Bethlehem so very long ago is the Banksy hotel.  Now, I love a good play on words, and this one is terrific.  Most people have heard of the Waldorf Hotel in New York City.  But, in Bethlehem, you can visit the Walled Off Hotel.  Originally set up as a temporary exhibition in 2017, this ten-room hotel attracts 140,000 visitors a year and claims to have the worst view in the world.

What’s going on here?

The Walled Off Hotel and the Wall, an Original Banksy

During my first visit to Bethlehem, there was no wall separating the city and Palestine from the rest of Israel. There is now and it is absolutely massive.  The Walled Off Hotel is a mere five meters from the wall, and only gets 25 minutes of direct sunshine a day.  Some may think that makes it the worst view in the world.  I’m not so sure.  The wall has become a canvas for graffiti “artists” and muralists around the world.  No, I didn’t paint my Bethlehem mural there, that would have assured that it wasn’t the worst view in the world – at least in my mind.

There are critics of the whole concept who claim that the whole idea of the hotel profits off the tragedy of war and the wall that makes life harder for the people of Palestine.  On the other side of the argument, it brings tourists to the city.  However, following the Hamas-led attack on Israel in 2023, tourism is down everywhere and the hotel is closed.

Immediately after this visit, we headed to the Church of the Nativity.  There is parking directly in front of the church.  The entrance is chained off and the attendants were reluctant to let us in.  My driver threw some very rapid-fire Arabic in their direction.  I didn’t understand anything except the word “American”.  Perhaps he said “American painter” because they asked if I was Banksy.  After all, I was wearing my paint splattered clothes (because this was a lunch break tour).

I wonder how different my experience would have been at the Church of the Nativity if my driver had only said, “Yes!”

The Church of the Nativity and Manger Square


Step inside the Church of the Nativity, that Special Star

Regardless, it was a very good experience.  An Arab tour guide said he would take me through the church for free.  A friend from Bethlehem said that they usually are not so gracious.  I keep telling everyone that I am a blessed traveler.  This is further proof.

The Church of the Nativity is shared by the Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, and Greek Orthodox Church.  The original church on the site was likely built between 330 and 333 AD, commissioned by Constatine the Great.  It was rebuilt, possibly in 529 AD, by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian.  There were various changes and additions since then, including Crusader mosaics and wall paintings, bell towers, and site expansions.

Upon entering the basilica, there is a long hallway leading to the chapels for the Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic Churches.  Follow your free Muslim guide around a bend and down some stairs to reach the grotto claimed by the Catholic Church.  The Nativity Grotto is thought to be where the manger was located.  This cave, which certainly no longer looks like a site where animals were kept and fed in a manger, is believed to be the location where Christ was born.  There is a star marking the exact spot.  I always thought the star shone over the city, but you can see one right on the floor of this grotto.

In 2012, the Church of the Nativity was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was the first UNESCO site listed under Palestine.  Just imagine the increased amount of tourism if Banksy – or some lesser-known American muralist – added a mural some place on the grounds!  I’m willing to return to Bethlehem to do it, with or without some anonymous Brit.