Adventure in Mexico

Playa del Carmen is a tourist trap.

My sister remembers when it was a sleepy little village on the way to the island of Cozumel.  Now, Playa del Carmen is a destination.  But, it is my favorite tourist trap on the planet.  There is only one tourist strip in Playa.  It's Fifth Avenue. Anything you may want from hotels, restaurants, boutiques, designer names, and souvenirs at any price range is available on Fifth Avenue.  That isn't why I like Playa del Carmen so much.

When you walk down this one tourist strip, you'll hear mariachi bands serenade as you stroll.  Young men, dressed as Aztec kings with feathered crowns that stretch for at least a yard, pose for photos.  (For a price, it's how they earn a living.).  Aztec singers and dancers perform on the beach.  And, Voladores, swirl to the ground, upside-down, from the towering heights of a metal pole in their traditional pole dance.  If you are going to visit a tourist trap, you might as well be thoroughly entertained.  Playa does not disappoint.  And, for someone like me who loves to photograph cultural portraits, I was simply delighted.

Portraits of people I see along the way have become the favorite souvenirs of my travels.  They hopefully combine a good drawing and a memorable experience.  Some people I draw are friends I've made along the way.  Other portraits are of people who barely crossed my path.  Finally, some drawings are of people who had no idea that they ever caught my eye.

Javier was one of the Aztec kings in Playa del Carmen.  He took a stern stance for the photo, as all good warriors should, but he is in reality a kind and warm person.  You may not see it in the drawing, but I know it is there.

I returned to the Cancun area a year after my first visit.  There was a chance that just maybe I would be able to locate Javier and give him a portrait.  I had never been able to do that before with any other stranger I drew.  Since there was only one street to search, it would not be that difficult.  Alas, Javier was not to be found.

H O W E V E R, there was another Aztec king.  I asked him if he knew Javier.  He did, but he said that Javier gave up his Aztec headdress for a new job.  The new king wasn't eager to give me more information.  That is, until I pulled out my portrait.  There was suddenly a whole lot more warmth added to the conversation.  And, he escorted me to Javier's new place of employment, only a block away.  In less than an hour, my friend was located.

I must admit that he looked very different dressed in normal clothes instead of feathers and war paint.  But, I look for every detail I can when drawing.  Javier had a tiny little mole under his right eye.  When I saw that, I was certain I found my Aztec king.


Of course, the guy was blown away.  Nobody ever drew his portrait before.  And, most certainly, nobody ever looked him up to deliver a copy.  He was speechless.  He decided very quickly that the very best way to say "gracias" was with a hug.

It should come as no surprise that upon my third trip to Playa del Carmen, Javier was the first person I looked up.  And now, together, we are trying to find a location for another mural in Mexico.  Javier carefully painted Aztec designs on his body for several years.  I have no doubt that he will do a fine job when it's time to put some paint on a wall.